Time to go surfing.
Pray for surf.
If there is one thing that has helped me to recover my balance over the past few months, it has been surfing.
It helps me to forget. To move on.
It helps me to regain my balance.
Surfing heals me.
My time spent in the ocean and in the sand is precious to me.
I can’t imagine my life with out surfing.
I’ve surfed the past 3 days at Bolsa. Surfed the Palaoa and caught 12 waves one day, 12 waves the second day, and 6 waves today. I was surfing with my brother today and we switched boards. I surfed 8 waves on his 9’3″ Harbour Banana. So fun! I liked it so much that I hope to create one soon. Easy to catch waves, trimmed well.
My total wave count on the Palaoa is 73 waves.
Anyone wanna trade a Banana for a Palaoa?
My brothers bus, and my bus.