Winter Is Over

Time to go surfing.
Pray for surf.

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View From The Office 12/9/14

If there is one thing that has helped me to recover my balance over the past few months, it has been surfing.
It helps me to forget. To move on.
It helps me to regain my balance.
Surfing heals me.
My time spent in the ocean and in the sand is precious to me.
I can’t imagine my life with out surfing.
I’m grateful.

Surfing and Bugs 7/25/14

73 and 8

I’ve surfed the past 3 days at Bolsa. Surfed the Palaoa and caught 12 waves one day, 12 waves the second day, and 6 waves today. I was surfing with my brother today and we switched boards. I surfed 8 waves on his 9’3″ Harbour Banana. So fun! I liked it so much that I hope to create one soon. Easy to catch waves, trimmed well.

My total wave count on the Palaoa is 73 waves.

Anyone wanna trade a Banana for a Palaoa?

My brothers bus, and my bus.

Been awhile

I haven’t surfed in a while. I’ve been busy with gigs, spent a week in Yosemite, and had more gigs. Today I finally paddled out at Bolsa Chica. Caught nine waves on the Palaoa. Water is perfect temperature. Like a bathtub. My total wave count on this board is 39 waves. We hung out and grilled some fish and steaks afterwards.

Hope

I’ve had a cold the past week. Sneezing a lot. I feel better now. Surf tomorrow? Hope so.

131

I surfed Bolsa on the Linden and caught 10 waves. My current wave count on the Linden is 131.