bolsa, new bonzer, shelter, 6/12/07

today i surfed bolsa. about waist high, with fair shape. fun! i rode the KG fish.

later i went to Shelter Surf Shop to pick up…

my brand new Shelter Surf Bonzer shaped by Gary Hanel! dims are 6’8″x 21″x 3″.

the deck
Kim, the owner, helped me with the transaction.
Baby River helped me as well.
he’s gonna own this place someday.

Shelter Surf is all good. owned and operated by Kim Day. full family vibe with much aloha. the shop has only been open for a few days, and this bonzer is the first board she’s sold. she have a sweet selection of boards. no “pop-outs” here. all boards are shaped by national and local legends. she know their stuff. here are a few more photos from the grand opening a few days ago:


im very stoked to own this board. ive never ridden a bonzer. paddling out tomorrow morning…


secret sheriff panman

yesterday i surfed this “secret spot” in san diego. if you know it, you know it.

theres a new sheriff in town……and he rides a twin.

this panman played while we ate at jamroc 101 caribbean grill last friday night.

my neck

i didnt go surfing today.

i didnt mention it in my post yesterday, but i kooked out and hurt my neck. on one of my final waves, i was experimenting with my back foot in regards to its placement over the twin fins, in front of the fins, behind the fins, etc. at the end of the wave i wanted to see how hard i could pivot the board, so i tried to place my back foot as far back as i could. i ended up stepping off the back of my board and i did a nice ear-plant as the wave closed out. i came up giggling about it, because it seemed funny at the time

on the very next wave, i noticed i had a little bit of pain coming from my neck and shoulder area. by last night, i was in full “stretch mode” and i was icing my neck and shoulder all night. when i woke up this morning, it didnt feel any better, nor any worse. i decided to be mellow and not go surfing. i trust i will feel better tomorrow. its not much. it just feels like a really light whip-lash.

my brother david called me and told me it was blown out anyway.
maybe he was just trying to make me feel better…

bolsa 5/23/07

today i surfed bolsa chica again. 1ft to 3ft, fair shape, super low tide. totally fun! the red tide seems to have vanished. i surfed the 7ft KG twin fish again. i was reminded of how fun the surf can be as long as there is decent shape. the only complaint i have about the KG fish is that sometimes its too fast for these small waves, and itll fly way in front of the wave. i compensate by doing long round cut-backs, which are totally fun anyway. more surf tomorrow…

surf 5/22/07

i surfed bolsa today. small. 1 to 2 ft, with a little texture and some red tide. i was still able to catch a dozen little fun ones. i surfed the 7ft KG twin fish. i love this board. fast. gabe paddled out on the “laker board of death”.

im finished with school for a few weeks, so i intend to do nothing but surf every day…

sano to mex

surfed sano today with smurf. surfed the 7ft KG twin. 1ft to 2ft……real small, but just wanted to surf for an hour or so. also, it seemed like the right thing to do since we were driving down to mexico.

at the moment, im sitting in the lobby at the rosarito beach hotel. nice. we arrived here around 6pm, and it looks like a nice northwest swell is building. should catch some good waves tomorrow.

i was in lake tahoe last week. fun stuff. photos to follow soon.

bolsa 4/6/07

i surfed bolsa today. paddled out at 3pm and surfed till 4:30pm.
2’to 3’with light texture, good shape. fun! i surfed the 7’KG fish again.

i know i won’t be able to surf tomorrow, as i have a gig in the morning and then i am driving up to humboldt county afterwards……..more to follow over the next few days…

im gonna post each time i surf, just so i can have a record of my surfing life. i know its a bit boring to some, but thats my life. for me, surfing is one of the most important aspects of my life. it gives me clarity. it keeps my balanced. all i want to do is surf as much as i can…