its been awhile


haven’t been out in over a month.

busy performing, got sick, then got depressed and didn’t feel like surfing for awhile.  it’s a long story, so i’ll keep it to myself.

surfed with Trevor and Max.  we checked out Sano first but it was blown.  surfed Doheny and it was small, but fun shape.

i surfed the Harbour Banana and caught 11 waves.

my current wave count on this board is 69………it’s a magic number.

here’s a random 10 second vid i shot from today with my iphone:


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