its been awhile

surfed.

haven’t been out in over a month.

busy performing, got sick, then got depressed and didn’t feel like surfing for awhile.  it’s a long story, so i’ll keep it to myself.

surfed with Trevor and Max.  we checked out Sano first but it was blown.  surfed Doheny and it was small, but fun shape.

i surfed the Harbour Banana and caught 11 waves.

my current wave count on this board is 69………it’s a magic number.

here’s a random 10 second vid i shot from today with my iphone:

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: