49

I surfed yesterday I Bolsa Chica on the Palaoa. I caught five waves. I surfed today and caught five more waves. My total wave count on this board is 49 waves.

I absolutely love this time of year. It’s like I have my own private beach. It’s after Labor Day and everyone has gone back to school are back to wherever. From Labor day through Thanksgiving is always such a great time of year to surf in Southern California. I love it.

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