Been awhile

I haven’t surfed in a while. I’ve been busy with gigs, spent a week in Yosemite, and had more gigs. Today I finally paddled out at Bolsa Chica. Caught nine waves on the Palaoa. Water is perfect temperature. Like a bathtub. My total wave count on this board is 39 waves. We hung out and grilled some fish and steaks afterwards.

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