Been awhile

I haven’t surfed in a while. I’ve been busy with gigs, spent a week in Yosemite, and had more gigs. Today I finally paddled out at Bolsa Chica. Caught nine waves on the Palaoa. Water is perfect temperature. Like a bathtub. My total wave count on this board is 39 waves. We hung out and grilled some fish and steaks afterwards.


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Bolsa for 11 more

I surfed Bolsa on the Palaoa today and caught 11 more waves. My current wave count is 30.

11 Sano

I surfed small Sano today and caught 8 waves My wave count on the Palaoa is 19.

New used longboard

I bought a longboard from a guy on Craigslist today for $200. He sold it so cheaply because he was in the Coast Guard and they were shipping him out this week.

The board is an Outer Island.
9’3″ x 23″ x 3 1/8″

It is set up with a 7″ cutaway and side bites. This is a fin set up which is foreign to me. But I took it out in some evening slop and I like the way it felt. I was surprised. It was a bit squirrley but it felt loose and sort of fun. I’m going to stay with this fin system for at least another 50 waves.

I surfed Bolsa
So far my wave count on this board is 11 waves.



I’ve had a cold the past week. Sneezing a lot. I feel better now. Surf tomorrow? Hope so.