much has happened since the last post just a 3 weeks ago.
i surfed the Malibu Special for a few more sessions at Bolsa, Doheny, and Sano, and caught an estimated 30 more waves (it was a while ago, so im guessing). the board was good, but i didn’t see how it would fit into my quiver. i have an 8′ Fineline Hull/Egg and the 6’6″ Zamora Slick Rick Hull. the Malibu Special was the thinnest of the hulls, and i felt it. it was cool, but id probably opt for one of the other two hulls for most sessions. So i decided to trade the board. i put the add up on line and i traded for a 7’10” x 21 1/2″ x 3′ Linden Panel Vee Single Fin.
this Linden is so fun! i didn’t really expect to feel much from the Panel Vee in the tail, but i was wrong……..this board flys side to side when it gets moving and the Vee has a unique loose feel to it. to me, this board is the best of both worlds: a longboard paddle with a shorter board turnability.
today i surfed Bolsa and rode 23 waves.
the other day i surfed Sano and rode 7 waves.
earlier that week i surfed Bolsa and rode 13 waves.
the time before that i surfed Sano and rode 5 waves.
my current wave count on the Linden is 48 waves.
ill probably ride this board for most of the Summer, and see how i feel by fall. beaches are crowded again, and all of the surf schools are in the water. it’s a good time to ride such an easy paddler.
the last thing i’d like to express is “the shift” i mentioned earlier…
sometime since the last post, i decided to make surfing more of a priority in my life. i’ve surfed since i was 11 years old, but i’ve never made it a high priority. for many reasons, i have changed my daily schedule as to allow much more surfing. part of this change requires me to use my VW Bus as “The Office”. this is not how i have done it in the past. i’ve always kept surfing and work separate. this has changed, and i find myself in The Office with my Iphone in hand, handling all of my work related tasks. every day has been a learning experience, as i feel i will dial in The Office over the next few weeks.
that’s it for now. the next time i post, it will be from The Office, and i will use my Iphone to do so.
hooray for technology! hooray for surf!