Bolsa again

Surfed Bolsa Chica today with Grace and Max.
7 waves on the Linden.
17 waves on Max’s Spherical Revolver.

Grace is learning how to surf, so i gave her my Linden to use.

it’s a bit thicker and wider than the Spherical Revolver, and she liked it.


my current wave count on the Linden is 57.




Surfing and The Office

much has happened since the last post just a 3 weeks ago.

a shift…

i surfed the Malibu Special for a few more sessions at Bolsa, Doheny, and Sano, and caught an estimated 30 more waves (it was a while ago, so im guessing).  the board was good, but i didn’t see how it would fit into my quiver.  i have an 8′ Fineline Hull/Egg and the 6’6″ Zamora Slick Rick Hull.  the Malibu Special was the thinnest of the hulls, and i felt it.  it was cool, but id probably opt for one of the other two hulls for most sessions.  So i decided to trade the board.  i put the add up on line and i traded for a 7’10” x 21 1/2″ x 3′ Linden Panel Vee Single Fin.  

this Linden is so fun!  i didn’t really expect to feel much from the Panel Vee in the tail, but i was wrong……..this board flys side to side when it gets moving and the Vee has a unique loose feel to it.  to me, this board is the best of both worlds: a longboard paddle with a shorter board turnability.

today i surfed Bolsa and rode 23 waves.

the other day i surfed Sano and rode 7 waves.

earlier that week i surfed Bolsa and rode 13 waves.

the time before that i surfed Sano and rode 5 waves.

my current wave count on the Linden is 48 waves.

ill probably ride this board for most of the Summer, and see how i feel by fall.  beaches are crowded again, and all of the surf schools are in the water.  it’s a good time to ride such an easy paddler.

the last thing i’d like to express is “the shift” i mentioned earlier…

sometime since the last post, i decided to make surfing more of a priority in my life.  i’ve surfed since i was 11 years old, but i’ve never made it a high priority.  for many reasons, i have changed my daily schedule as to allow much more surfing.  part of this change requires me to use my VW Bus as “The Office”.  this is not how i have done it in the past.  i’ve always kept surfing and work separate.  this has changed, and i find myself in The Office with my Iphone in hand, handling all of my work related tasks.  every day has been a learning experience, as i feel i will dial in The Office over the next few weeks.

that’s it for now.  the next time i post, it will be from The Office, and i will use my Iphone to do so.

hooray for technology!  hooray for surf!



new Malibu Special

i was cruising Craigslist and i bought a Bojorquez Malibu Special for only $160!

crazy, huh?

its 7’4″ x 21 1/2″ x 2 3/4″.

another hull in the quiver.

i surfed it at Sano in some bumpy crowded surf and caught 12 waves.

it was a bit difficult.

board is underwater when i sit on it.

im still able to paddle pretty easily on it, but it paddles more like a shortboard than a longboard.

when i was up and riding, it was pure hull fun!

its got an 8″ flex fin on it, and for this first session the fin was pushed all the way up.

the next day i surfed blown out Bolsa and pushed the fin all the way back.

the waves sucked.

Bolsa sucks most of the time.  such a fickle break.  i have to duck dive a hundred times to catch one crumbly wave.  frustrating.  i caught 3 waves.  thats all. and although i will ride this board for another 100 waves, i could tell it struggled in beach break.  well, i guess i struggled in the beach break.  i like the challenge, and ive learned not to judge too much with this hulls in the beginning.  each board takes a while to really get wired.

waves are almost non existent now, and the next week doesnt look too promising.

my current wave count is a mere 15 waves.

im gonna ride this thing for at least 100 waves before i do anything else with it.

its fun when im riding a wave.

its a bitch when im doing everything else.

photos and more later…

i surfed Bolsa …

i surfed Bolsa yesterday with a new board that my friend Jeremy gave to me to surf this week.

it’s a Kaysen 7’6″ x 21 1/2″ x 2 7/8″.

it was small, but the new swell was building.

i caught 10 waves.

the board handled fine.  nothing too exciting about it.  it surfed how it looked.

ill post a photo tomorrow.


today i surfed the Kaysen again at Doheny.

the swell has come in, and the waves were a bit textured but still fun.

i caught 11 waves.

my total wave count on the Kaysen is 21 waves.

it’s interesting to surf this board.  it does what it does.  nothing exciting, nothing extraordinary.  just a retro-ish mid length single fin.

i think ill surf my Fineline Hull/Egg tomorrow, just to compare the flow.




more tomorrow…