this week i finally caught some waves.
it was about 30 days with out surf.
i got sick, been busy with school, gigs, life.
it felt good to ride waves again.
surfed Doheny with Max.
i rode 19 waves on my Fineline Hull Egg, and 8 waves on Max’s freaky 7’x3″ Bruce Jones Quad.
the waves we’re almost perfect, 2 to 4 feet with good shape and slightly offshore winds.
the next day we surfed Bolsa.
waist to chest high, with good shape.
i rode 14 waves on the Fineline.
so much fun on this board.
love the speed.
my total wave count on the Fineline is 87.
i love surfin SoCal in October.
more next week…