12 more at Sano

i surfed Sano last night.
chest high.
caught 12 waves.
still loving the Fineline Speed Egg.
my current wave count is 54.

now im in bed.
fever, chills, headache.

im missing the surf…

more waves

surfed Bolsa last night on the Fineline.
caught 8 waves.

surfed Bolsa this morning in the Fineline.
caught 11 waves.

my current wave count is 42.

board is so fun!
more surf tomorrow morning.


here’s whats happened since my last post…

i bought a 9″ Greenbough Flex Fin for my Zamora Slick Rick from a guy off Craigslist. After all this time, i never surfed this board with a 9″ fin as prescribed by most “hullys”.
it works well!
so well that i believe i enjoy it the best out of all the fin set ups i tried with this board.
i surfed Sano and caught 11 waves with this set up.
the next day i surfed Seal Beach Jetty in the evening as the big Labor Day swell started to build.
it was chest high and i caught 12 waves.
my current wave count on the Slick Rick is 173.
i wanted to reach 200 waves but…

yet another board added to the quiver.
actually, this in only the second hull i’ve ever owned, so i feel justified.(sad rationalization)
i bought this board off Craigslist, and i scored on the price.
the dims are 8′ x 22 1/8″ x 3″.
i’ve viewed a lot of the vids and pics from Brian Hilbers at Fineline Surfboards, and i wanted to check out his take on the hull for awhile.

this board rules!
so much fun! ridiculously fast in the front and mid section where it hulls out nicely.
the back end is more of an egg design, and allows for easy back foot turning when desired.
there wasn’t much of a learning curve on this board. i just pointed and went. super fun long drawn out cutbacks from the middle of the board, fun trim and jive from the front, and even the occasional lip smack from the tail of the board. i have much respect for Brian Hilbers. he definitely knows his shit, and i hope to meet him soon to tell him in person.

i surfed Seal Beach Jetty with the Fineline during the first solid day of the swell.
i pretty much was able to do whatever i wanted to do with it. i surfed the long lined up waves in the jetty, and then the waist high beach break by Crabs. i was surprised how well this board handled the beach break, given the length. no problem!
i caught 19 waves!

two days later i surfed Sano.
it was still big, and by the time i got there it was blown and tricky. my last wave was an outsider, and i felt comfortable knowing i had all of this speed when needed. it felt good to get the board on waves that we’re a little overhead. once again, it paddled and surfed well. i’m not sure how well i would have done on the Slick Rick given these conditions. the ability to paddle long distances quickly was key to this session. i caught a mere 4 waves before the sun set, but each wave was over 50 yards long. my current wave count on this board is 23.

im really looking forward to surfing after this Labor Day weekend.
everyone goes back to school, and the beach crowd thins out a bit. it’s my favorite time of year to surf SoCal. still sunny, a bit chilly, and normally some decent swells.

so stoked to have this Fineline.

more later…