so i got to 39 waves on the 6″8″ Zippifish twin, and then scored a great deal on an 8’6″ x 22 1/8 x 3 disc single fin longboard from Craigslist.
yea, i know i wanted to surf the Zippifish for 50 waves before i moved on to another board, but i’ve been looking to ride a board between 7’6″ to 8’6″ for awhile now.
because i haven’t really surfed boards in that mid length area.
over the years i’ve done 5’8″ to 7’6″, and 9′ to 10’………..i’ve never messed around with mid lengths too much.
i had an 8′ Bruce Jones disc about 20 years ago, and i loved it!
but the whole retro longboarding thing was starting, and i jumped on the band wagon and started surfing 9’+ boards, and eventually small fishes.
i know mid lengths are considered by many to be “kook boards”, but i don’t really care what anyone thinks.
i have my own questions i want to answer.
so far, this new board has been fun as hell!
i surfed Sano and surfed 8 waves.
the next day i surfed Bolsa and surfed 12 waves.
i like it.
im not really into the whole “nose ride a long board at all costs because the magazines and the vids tell me it’s cool” epidemic i witness going on around me.
i’ve been riding the nose for over 30 years, and im able to enjoy surfing a board from the the tail, center, as well as the nose area.
so this mid length is super fun, and i’ll put my 50 waves in before i really judge what’s going on.
so far so good.
praying for more surf…