39 waves

i have not updated this blog in awhile, since i’ve been doing everything on Facebook.
haven’t we all?

but, i feel the desire to post this current project here.

today i surfed Sano.
excellent conditions, chest high, slight off shores.
im in the midst of a little surfing experiment.
how many waves do i catch on a surfboard, before i move on to another surfboard?

so far, this is the breakdown:

i surfed last Monday and caught 11 waves.
i surfed last Friday and caught 15 waves.
i surfed today and caught 13 waves.
my total of waves caught so far on my 6’8″ Zippifish Twin is 39 waves.

i was thinking of surfing 50 waves on this board, and then moving to another board in my quiver.
but, i now think 50 waves is not enough.
i don’t know how many waves to catch before i switch boards, but i feel it may more than 50.


i dunno.
time will tell.
i do all of this because i’ve recently realized i never spend too much time on one surfboard.
i tend to jump from one board to another, and maybe i would benefit from staying on one board for a longer period of time.
much like i did when i was 16 years old and only owned one surfboard.
i surfed much better then.

we will see.

more later…