bolsa 5/14/08

today i surfed bolsa chica on the GH Bonzer. thought id shoot a few random photos when i got home.

this is what my volvo looks like when i get home. surfboard, skateboards, stick bag, djembe, wetsuits, etc…

i luv this bonzer! ive read many reviews on how these boards dont do well unless theres some serious juice. i find this board to ride great in knee to waist hight surf. it was small today, but i got my turns in.

im almost out of school, and it feels good to surf all day again.
lots of changes around me.
people, attitudes, etc.
more on this stuff later.
for now, i just wanna surf…


there are certain people
in my life
that stay with me
even after they are gone

and i am not the same anymore

time doesnt matter
for i have learned
certain people
are timeless
forever with me
in my life


tell me
did i do it wrong?
did i live for the day?
was i too weak?
was i too strong?
tell me
what do you say?