today i surfed bolsa chica on the 6’6″zippifish quad. i love this board! so fast, even on small waves.
it was knee to waist high, and it got better as the tide dropped. it was sunny and warm, with only a slight breeze. the water is still cold.
there was plenty of time between sets. felt good to simply be out.
the last time i paddled out was Christmas Day. i think thats the longest ive gone with out surfing in years. i hope to paddle out tomorrow.
this is entry #30 of the “30 day post project”.
my thoughts and ideas about the “30 day post project” tomorrow.