bolsa 8/19/07

finally surfed today! i havent paddled out in over two weeks. felt good to get my gills wet again.

i surfed bolsa, on the 7’x21″x3″ twin fin diamond tail corky carroll. i havent surfed this board in over a year. it took a few waves to figure it out again. basically the board is a longboard thats been chopped off at the top and at the bottom, with two really big twin fins attached. the board is totally fun! it was glassy and waist high, and lots of people out. i guess friday is a day off for a lot of people. i may paddle out tomorrow, but its saturday……i dont normally surf the weekends. we’ll see. they say the santa anas might start blowing any day now. they say that a lot, and the predictions are almost always incorrect. still, it got pretty hot today in the LBC….85 degrees in october. ill take it.

all i want to do is surf…


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