today i surfed the 6′ Zippifish Quad at bolsa. small, but fun!
i havent paddled out in over a month!!!!!…….and its not for lack of trying. ive been in and out of town, performing a lot, etc. also, the surf hasnt been that good. ive gone several times, but the surf was so weak i didnt paddle out. it felt good to finally get some waves today. my schedule is changing and i know ill be able to surf more.
i like this time of the year.
for many in the SoCal area, school starts this week and next week. crowds start to thin out at the beach. by september, the beaches get empty. it gets a bit cooler, but i dont mind putting on the wetsuit. surfing SoCal from sep-december is great when we get waves. this past summer has been so small, im really hoping for good swells soon.
im gonna paddle out tomorrow before my gig.
feel free to comment.