

me.
after my biopsy last thursday.
had a little infection on my eyelid.
might have something to do with surfing Seal Beach a few days before.
wont know the results till thursday.
thats when theyll remove the stitch from my eyelid.
until then, i look like Quasimodo.
i dare you to leave a comment.
today i checked out bolsa, and there were waves…..but i wasnt feelin it. it was kinda walled and bumpy. i decided to go home and i passed by seal not thinking i was going to see anything worthwhile. i was wrong.
it was 1 to 3ft, with fun shape. i paddled out about 50 yards north of the pier, and surfed a break by myself for 2 hours. i thought for sure the dudes ripping the pier were going to paddle over once they saw the long rights i was getting, but they didnt.
it was one of those sessions that doesnt happen too often. nice waves, in the middle of the day, and a break all to myself.
i rode the 6′6″ zippifish quad. super fun, super fast! love this board.
i think this is the best quiver ive had in a long time, as im going to abandon my zippifish quad for the next few sessions and take out the 6′6″GH bonzer. i havent surfed that board in a while, and ive forgotten the feeling.
more later…