Bolsa, Bolsa, Sano.

this blog has evolved into a personal wave journal.
i like it.

i surfed Bolsa two weeks ago.
caught 12 waves.

i surfed Bolsa last week.
caught 12 more waves.

today i surfed Sano with Trevor
super crowded.
day after Christmas.
i caught 20 waves.

i still love my Fineline Hull Egg.
super fun.
super fast.
my current wave count on this board is 144.

ill be getting a Stoker V-Machine in a few weeks from Bruce Fowler.
i wonder how i will feel about leaving the Hull for a few waves?
good problem.

hoping to surf Sano again tomorrow…

a few more waves

surfed Bolsa.
caught 8 waves.

surfed Sano.
caught 5 waves.

my current wave count on the Fineline Hull is a 100 waves.
still having lots of fun on the board.
i don’t want to move to another board just yet.

hoping for more November surf sessions.

Doheny and Bolsa

this week i finally caught some waves.
it was about 30 days with out surf.
i got sick, been busy with school, gigs, life.
it felt good to ride waves again.

surfed Doheny with Max.
i rode 19 waves on my Fineline Hull Egg, and 8 waves on Max’s freaky 7′x3″ Bruce Jones Quad.
the waves we’re almost perfect, 2 to 4 feet with good shape and slightly offshore winds.

the next day we surfed Bolsa.
waist to chest high, with good shape.
i rode 14 waves on the Fineline.
so much fun on this board.
love the speed.

my total wave count on the Fineline is 87.

i love surfin SoCal in October.

more next week…

12 more at Sano

i surfed Sano last night.
fun!
chest high.
caught 12 waves.
still loving the Fineline Speed Egg.
my current wave count is 54.

now im in bed.
sick.
fever, chills, headache.

im missing the surf…

more waves

surfed Bolsa last night on the Fineline.
caught 8 waves.

surfed Bolsa this morning in the Fineline.
caught 11 waves.

my current wave count is 42.

board is so fun!
more surf tomorrow morning.

surprise!

here’s whats happened since my last post…

i bought a 9″ Greenbough Flex Fin for my Zamora Slick Rick from a guy off Craigslist. After all this time, i never surfed this board with a 9″ fin as prescribed by most “hullys”.
it works well!
so well that i believe i enjoy it the best out of all the fin set ups i tried with this board.
i surfed Sano and caught 11 waves with this set up.
the next day i surfed Seal Beach Jetty in the evening as the big Labor Day swell started to build.
it was chest high and i caught 12 waves.
my current wave count on the Slick Rick is 173.
i wanted to reach 200 waves but…

surprise!
yet another board added to the quiver.
actually, this in only the second hull i’ve ever owned, so i feel justified.(sad rationalization)
i bought this board off Craigslist, and i scored on the price.
the dims are 8′ x 22 1/8″ x 3″.
i’ve viewed a lot of the vids and pics from Brian Hilbers at Fineline Surfboards, and i wanted to check out his take on the hull for awhile.

this board rules!
so much fun! ridiculously fast in the front and mid section where it hulls out nicely.
the back end is more of an egg design, and allows for easy back foot turning when desired.
there wasn’t much of a learning curve on this board. i just pointed and went. super fun long drawn out cutbacks from the middle of the board, fun trim and jive from the front, and even the occasional lip smack from the tail of the board. i have much respect for Brian Hilbers. he definitely knows his shit, and i hope to meet him soon to tell him in person.

i surfed Seal Beach Jetty with the Fineline during the first solid day of the swell.
i pretty much was able to do whatever i wanted to do with it. i surfed the long lined up waves in the jetty, and then the waist high beach break by Crabs. i was surprised how well this board handled the beach break, given the length. no problem!
i caught 19 waves!

two days later i surfed Sano.
it was still big, and by the time i got there it was blown and tricky. my last wave was an outsider, and i felt comfortable knowing i had all of this speed when needed. it felt good to get the board on waves that we’re a little overhead. once again, it paddled and surfed well. i’m not sure how well i would have done on the Slick Rick given these conditions. the ability to paddle long distances quickly was key to this session. i caught a mere 4 waves before the sun set, but each wave was over 50 yards long. my current wave count on this board is 23.

im really looking forward to surfing after this Labor Day weekend.
everyone goes back to school, and the beach crowd thins out a bit. it’s my favorite time of year to surf SoCal. still sunny, a bit chilly, and normally some decent swells.

so stoked to have this Fineline.

more later…

5 more

i surfed Sano yesterday with Max.
it was super small, but we had a gig later at the Surf and Sand Resort so we paddled out anyway.
i caught 5 waves on the Slick Rick, which brings my total wave count to 150.

my right shoulder has been hurting lately.
i hope it’s a temporary injury.

hot bath now…

new fin

i’ve surfed twice since my last post.

surfed Bolsa on the Slick Rick.
i switched the quad set up…….smaller fins up front, larger on back.
seemed to work well.
it was small and blown, but i caught 10 waves.

yesterday i surfed Sano with Max after our gig at the VW Jam in Irvine.
i met a dude from Craigslist in San Clemente and bought a used 9″ Greenbough Flex Fin for $25.
i put it on the Slick Rick with no sidebites.
it worked well.
even though the waves were small, i felt that “glide” that i didnt have with the quads….and yet there seemed to be enough control to still bank off the lip from time to time.
cutbacks were nice and easy too.
my current wave count on Slick Rick is 145.
i think ill stay with this single fin set up for awhile.

also, i cant help but wonder what a 7′+ Liddle Hull would surf like?
this “hull” thing is new to me, so i’d really like to try a longer hull.
yes, im combing Craigslist now…

by the way, we stopped at Stewart Surfboards to purchase a Wonderbolt for the new fin.
while we were there, Max bought a used Bruce Jones quad……..6’10″x23″?x3 1/4″………crazy fat and wide board!
he surfed it well.
i was surprised to see him do so well so quickly, given the fact that he’s been on much longer boards recently.

photos later.

cool…

124 waves

i’ve been lagging on this blog.

i surfed Sano, caught 12 waves.

surfed Sano the next day and caught 12 more waves.

surfed Bolsa and caught 5 waves before the lifeguard escorted me out of the water.
blackball sux donkeys!

i rode all of these waves on the Slick Rick with the quad set up.

my current wave count on the Slick Rick is 124.
although i have the board working well, i still don’t feel like i have it completely dialed in.
maybe because i keep changing the fin set up.
i’ll keep riding the Slick Rick with the current quads for at least another 50 waves.

Slick Rick with the quad set up.

little Sano

i surfed Sano today.
small and blown.

surfed 4 waves.
my total wave count on the Slick Rick is 95 waves.

to see a few photos of the day, visit the new Sandy Bus site.

cool.

side bites and quads on Slick Rick

ok, ive surfed a few times since my last post.

i surfed 35 waves at Bolsa. it was small, but fun. surfed the Slick Rick with two side bites. worked great! still loose and fast.

two days later i surfed 13 waves at Sano with a quad set up. it was small, but i could feel the difference with the quads. a bit slower, but still fast and loose.

13 more waves the next day at Bolsa. waves finally picked up. it was kinda walled, but i got my turns in. im liking the quads. i think ill stick with this set up for awhile.

my total wave count on the Slick Rick is 91 waves.
i think ill go at least another 50 waves before i change anything up.

this is fun!

back on the SR.

today i surfed the Spherical Revolver at Sano.
i had a gig at the Surf and Sand Resort in Laguna Beach, so i decided to catch a few waves before the gig.
it was hi tide and blown.
small little waves.
i hadn’t surfed the SR in a few weeks due to my recent Slick Rick experiment.
the Slick Rick is at the shapers getting some quad boxes put in.
im really going to experiment with Slick……….quads, speed dialers, twin keels, side bites, bonzer, etc.
i want to know how much is “hull”, “rails”, and “fins”.
i guess you gotta be a surfer to understand this experiment.

anyway, i caught 5 waves.
my wave count on the SR is 60 waves.

cool…

Sano with Slick Rick

i surfed Slick Rick today with the fin pushed all the way back.
big difference!
although the waves we’re small, i could immediately feel the difference in drive and hold by pushing the fin all the way back.
i like it.
surfed trail 6 at evening glass.
small, but fun.
caught 12 waves.
my total wave count is 30.
this board is so fast and lets me make sections with ease.
fun~

day two with Slick Rick

surfed Seal Beach Jetty on the Slick Rick this afternoon. i hadn’t surfed the jetty in years. there were some waves. i ended up on the furthest point with all the longboarders. i caught 8 waves, with two really long rights all the way to Crabs. the board is fun! but, im wanna “stiffin” it up just a tad. i pushed the fin all the way back now. going to Sano later today for some evening glass hopefully. more fine experimentation to be had…

my wave count on this board is 18 waves.